Part of being a snake breeder is being asked a lot of questions. Here is a list of the questions (and answers) people most commonly ask me.
Question #1: Do you accept trades
Answer: Definitely maybe. Please take a moment to read about our position on doing snake trades.
Ready to make a trade offer? Click here to send us an offer.
Question #2: What does ECRB feed its hatchling ball pythons? Live, fresh killed or frozen/thawed (F/T)?
Answer: All of our ball pythons are fed live food. We do not offer fresh killed or frozen/thawed food to any of our animals. While many of our customers prefer frozen/thawed and do not have any measurable difficulty in getting their animals to switch we do not guarantee when or if they will do so.
Question #3: Can I keep two ball pythons in the same cage?
Answer: While it can be done we do not recommend it. The health of each animal is easier to track and maintain when each animal is kept in a separate enclosure.
Question #4: In what size cage should I keep my ball python?
Answer: In general we believe that smaller is better, especially with young ball pythons. A 6 quart shoe box is more than sufficient for a hatchling ball python. Without ample space to hide placing a baby ball python in a ten or twenty gallon may cause them to stop feeding. In the wild ball pythons are most often found in small, dark recesses (frequently underground). They are mostly crepuscular creatures and usually thrive when given a small cage with a good hiding spot.
Human beings tend to like large living quarters. Snakes are not human and do not share our affinity for a large place to call home. Don’t inflict your desire to have a large house on your snakes.
Question #5: How old do my ball pythons have to be before I breed them?
Answer: While age is a factor most people use weight as the metric to determine breeding readiness. There are variations but most people will agree that a male ball python should be a minimum of 700 grams prior to breeding (some say 500 grams). Bigger is not necessarily better with males but size and maturity may help a male endure the breeding season better than a smaller young male. Be warned: a male ball python will breed himself to death. All indications are that his desire to reproduce is stronger than his desire to tend to his own health. It is up to the keeper to monitor the health of the male and not let him get too run down during breeding season.
Female ball pythons should be about 1,500 grams before breeding. Some people will try to breed females at 1,200 grams but the success rate is much lower at this size. It usually takes 18-36 months to raise a female to this size. As always there are occasional exceptions to this. Older, more mature, ball pythons have a tendency to lay larger numbers of eggs but this is not a given. You should expect an average of 5-7 eggs. Some females may lay larger clutches (in the 10-12 egg range).
Question #6: In what morph projects do you think I should invest?
Question #7: How often should I feed my ball python?
Answer: Every 7-10 days if you are keeping it as a pet. Slightly more often if you are raising it as a breeder. Most ball pythons do not eat when in full shed (exceptions do exist).
Question #8: How do I breed my ball pythons?
Answer: Mike Wilbanks from Constrictors Unlimited gives a good overview. Please read what he has to say on his web site. Mike is a leader in the ball python industry so his insight and advice is always valuable.
Question #9: Can I come visit your facility?
Answer: Our facility is not open to the public.
Question #10: Do your spiders wobble? Can you guarantee that the spider I am buying won’t develop a wobble?
Question #11: Do you ship outside the United States?
Answer: Currently, no. We are working to become an international shipper and are hopeful that the process will be completed in the next few months. Please visit our International Shipments page for the most up-to-date information on our international shipping status.